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Baseline Soil Testing

1/9/2017

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Soil is the foundation to all life! Not to mention it is where we get our food from!! There is a lot more going on in soil than we even understand today.

Healthy soil can have thousands of species of bacteria within it, many of which have not even been identified. Soil contains many other types of organisms, including, nematodes, microarthropods and fungi. They play critical roles in the soil food web of life and help make food in the soil available to plants so they can grow healthy.

Healthy soil holds far more water than dirt and can provide all the food plants need so you don't have to apply fertilizers or pesticides.

The best way to assess the health of soil is to look at it - under a microscope. Something we have done but have found minimal life in our soil.

In order to provide a baseline for experimentation at our ecological design education and demonstration site we are going to send soil samples to multiple sources for nutrient level analysis. This is the area around our cob cabin where we have the food forest.

We have chosen the following labs based on recommendations and price:

Logan Labs - http://www.loganlabs.com/testing-services.html

UMassAmherst - http://soiltest.umass.edu/services

Texas A&M - http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/webpages/forms.html


Some of the things they will test for include:

pH
Organic Matter
Total Exchange Capacity
Sulfur

Phosphorous
Calcium
Magnesium
Potassium
Sodium
Boron
Iron
Manganese
Copper
Zinc
Aluminum
Lead
% Base Saturation Ca, Mg, K, Na

How to collect a sample:
- Use a spade, soil auger or soil sampling tube.

- Clear litter from the surface (do not remove decomposed black material).

- When using a soil auger or sampling tool, make the core or boring 6 inches
  deep into the soil (3 to 4 inches deep for permanent sod)

- When using a spade:
  • Dig a V-shaped hole and take a 1 inch slice from the smooth side of the hole.
  • Take a 1 x 1 inch core from the center of the shovel slice

- Repeat in 10 to 15 different places. Put in a clean plastic bucket or other     non-metallic container, thoroughly mix and remove a pint (or more if   additional tests are desired) as a composite sample representing the whole field or area.

- Completely fill soil sample bag or othersuitable pint container. Do not use old vegetable cans, tobacco cans, match boxes, glass containers, etc. to submit samples. If more than one sample bag is used, label bags as 1 of 2, 2 of 2, etc.

Hopefully our results will come in soon! We will post them in a blog.

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10 Reasons To Harvest Rainwater

12/30/2016

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  1. Rainwater is delivered to us free of charge, eliminating the need for costly distribution systems. Did you know that 20% of all energy consumed in California is used to transport, treat or store water?
  2. Rainwater is the highest-quality source of irrigation water.
  3. Rain water is salt-free and can help flush plant damaging salts from the root zone in alkaline soils.
  4. Rainwater is a natural fertilizer containing sulfur, beneficial microorganisms, mineral nutrients, and nitrogen.
  5. Rainwater harvesting helps reduce utility bills.
  6. Rainwater harvesting reduces flooding by reducing flow to streets and storm drains.
  7. Rainwater harvesting reduces nonpoint-source pollution of stormwater.
  8. Rainwater harvesting provides a water source when well, surface, or municipal water is contaminated or unreliable (such as after a major earthquake)
  9. Water harvesting helps utilities reduce summer peak demands for water and reduces the volume of wastewater that needs to be treated at water treatment plants.
  10. Water harvesting is fun! The food from my garden tastes better than store bought food and we have emergency water storage.
List from http://www.sandiegoreader.com/weblogs/mysterious-math-about-rainwater-harvesting/2013/apr/01/rainwater-harvesting-the-math/#
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What Regions in Drought Can Learn From Australia

11/6/2016

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Drought
From around 1997 to 2010 southeastern Australia experienced the worst drought in the country’s recorded history! Known in the area as the "millenium drought," Melbourne reservoir levels dropped by almost three-quarters to a historic low of 25.9 percent. At one point, the city of four million people was 500 days away from running out of water!

Through extensive water-reduction programs they were able to reduce use from 65 gallons per person per day in 2000-1 to 39 gallons in 2010-11  — enough to help save the city from running dry.

Distributing free water-saving equipment, advertising on television and radio, a program for garden centers which included planting drought-tolerant native plants and using mulch on their garden, water bills that told customers how much they were using and rebates on water-efficient washing machines and rainwater tanks were all tools used to reduce water demand.

Rainwater harvesting tank usage increased from 16.7 percent of households to 29.6 percent through.

California is similarly facing it's worst drought in 1200 years! Californians use about 75 gallons per day. California has begun to use similar tools that were deployed in Australia during the millenium drought.

Governor Jerry Brown announced the first ever statewide mandatory reduction in urban water use in April 2015 which calls on Californians to reduce their use of potable (safe for drinking and food preparation) urban water by 25% from pre-drought levels. Californians are meeting the mandate.

However, more can be done in California. Australia made much larger, comprehensive investments in water conservation and efficiency involving households, businesses and local governments.

If each house (just over 1,000,000 million homes as of 2013) installed a properly sized rainwater capture system, with just ONE inch of rain we could capture 1,200,000,000 gallons of water - that is 1200 gallons per household, with only ONE inch! The average house in San Diego is approximately 2,000 square feet, not to mention businesses.

Visit our site for details on catching rainwater. Catching Rainwater Page


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Ferrocement - a simple, cheap, long lasting building medium

10/31/2016

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Ferro means iron, and although we do not use iron in ferrocement, we do use steel, an iron alloy.
The cement we use is Portland cement, a form of limestone.
Cement is used to encapsulate the steel mesh in thin layers forming the walls of the tanks. This method utilizes the compressive strength of cement and tensile strength for a marriage of unequal quality.

Ferrocement was first used back in the 1850s, by the great French architect Henri Labrouste, a Boulogne gardener Joseph Monier and a country gentleman named Jean-Louis Lambot. They made plaster vaults, flower pots, doors and boats. In 1876 mechanical engineer W.E. Ward built a ferrocement house in Port Chester, New York which is still in good condition!


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Ferrocement boat built in 1887 and still afloat today.
The building of our tanks is modeled off that of Martin Iorns and Lou Watson who invented and patented this building process in the 1960s called laminated ferrocement - the use of a mold to accurately reproduce super strong and long-lasting boats. And their boats are still in great condition today! We took their idea a step further to make water tanks and integrate a modular system for off-site manufacturing of the tank sections.
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A ferrocement boat built by Fibersteel, Iorns' and Watson's company, in 1978.
We make pre-cast modular water tanks in 2 foot tall sections. Currently we make a 3 foot diameter water tank, but will have other sizes available in the future. The bottom section (seen in below photo) includes the 2 foot tall sidewalls and a bottom, then we can stack additional 2 foot tall sidewall sections on top of the using a male-female compression lip. This allows the sections to nest snugly against each other. Then we seal the seal with a super-strong industrial polyurethane sealant which is potable grade so it does not affect water quality.
The short modular sections allow for an easier casting/curing process and make it much easier to move the sections around. Once cured, we roll them on our trailer and right into your yard where we stack them together, then add a lid. This way we don't need big cranes or a lot of space for installation.
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Bottom section being placed on gravel frame, ready for second section.
Our laminated ferrocement building process uses approximately 80 percent less cement that conventional reinforced concrete and is far stronger and does not crack as is often seen in foundations, bridges, other cement structures. The walls of our tanks are only 3/8" thick but super strong and will hold your water for decades to come!
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Minisode 9 - Cob Cabin Update - Cob Walls Coming Up Fast

10/23/2016

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After a long-awaited update this Minisode shows the amazing and fast progress of the cob walls getting almost to ceiling height on one side of the cabin (south). Just a little more cob and we can begin to put in the roof beams.

Future episodes will go into detail of various elements.

To learn more about this project please check out our previous Minisodes in the Archives.
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$250 Rebate On water Tank Through SoCal Water$mart

10/2/2016

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SoCal Water$mart Rebate
SoCal Water$mart is currently offering a $250 dollar rebate on our water tanks!

Funding for the SoCal Water$mart program is through a partnership between the Metropolitan Water District of Southern California and its 26 member agencies throughout Southern California. Their commitment to developing an affordable balance between supply and demand has made “finding” water a mission.

The Metropolitan Water District of Southern California is a state chartered cooperative of 26 member agencies—cities and public water agencies—that serve about 18 million people in six counties. Metropolitan imports water from the Colorado River and Northern California to supplement local supplies, and help its members to develop increased water conservation, recycling, storage and other resource-management programs. Metropolitan draws supplies through the Colorado River Aqueduct, which it owns and operates.

The rebate process is simple and fast, we are happy to help you through the process.

Contact us for a free at-home consultation to see if our rainwater harvesting systems are right for you!

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Barn Owl Nest Boxes - Get Rid Of Rodents The Natural Way

9/15/2016

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Ever had a problem with rodents?
I bet the answer is yes.
Fortunately there is a natural and safe way to rid yourself unwanted rodents - install a Barn Owl nest box on your property!

OUR NATIVE FRIEND
Barn Owls are a native owl species who like to nest in the hollows of trees and, of course, barns. Unfortunately there aren't many old trees or barns around. Old dead trees with hollows have mostly been cut down for firewood or to reduce the risk of wildfires.


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Barn Owl coming in for the kill.
After years of work, and over a decade of studying birds of prey, we have developed the ultimate Barn Owl Nest Box. The box is made of cedar wood and strong screws so it will last for years and years. It is the optimal size, keeps the owls cool with small vents and we use an all natural bee repellent to be sure your owl box does not turn into a bee hive.
Barn Owl nest box. Copyright Permasystems
Our perfect Barn Owl nest box.
Barn owls nest in spring and usually have between 3 and 7 cute little owlets. Each adult Barn Owl eats about 1-2 rodents per night and a nesting family can eat over 1,000 rodents per year (1995 UC Davis Study).

BARN OWLS' FAVORITE MEAL =
GOPHERS, RATS AND MICE


The owls are also very small, weighing about a pound, so you don't have to worry about pets being injured.

Barn Owl Nest box installation. Copyright Permasystems
Chris installing a Barn Owl nest box in a Cost Live Oak tree.
It is absolutely critical that the nest box be placed in the proper location to attract the owls to it AND keep predators like raccoons from getting into the box and eating the owls or owlets.

Many factors go into play when an owl is looking for a home.
These factors include the size and shape of the box, opening size, mounting height, mounting substrate, sun angle, box door accessibility, relative grade slope to box and many others. After studying raptor ecology for over 10 years we can ensure your nest box is placed in the best way to get owls.

Barn Owl nest box. Copyright Permasytems
Barn Owl box mounted on 16 foot steel pole.
Here at Permasystems we are about using natural systems to solve our problems and lead more efficient lives in balance with nature. There is no better example of this than giving a home for Barn Owls. Whether or not you get a Barn Owl nest box from us, we plead you not to EVER use ANY poisons for rodents. THEY ARE ALL NOT SAFE for wildlife, pets or people!!!

DO NOT USE POISONS - EVER

Even poisons that state on the package that they are safe or do not cause secondary poisoning are construing the truth. Secondary poisoning is when an animal, like a coyote, eats a gopher you poisoned, and then get poisoned themselves. The claim that a poison does not cause secondary poisoning means that once a poison is digested by the primary animal, the gopher in our example, it is no longer poisonous to the secondary animal, the coyote. This is true, however, most of the times, when the primary animal dies, it still has undigested poison in it's stomach and therefore will poison anything that eats it!

Learn more about poisoning from our friends at Raptors Are The Solution

http://www.raptorsarethesolution.org/tracking-poisons/
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Minisode 8 - Cob Cabin Update - Irrigation System

6/10/2016

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Overview of our simple, cheap and reliable irrigation system. Our long-term goal is to not even need/use the watering system, however, in our dry climate we need to water the trees and other plants to get them established. The best watering system is the rain and soil!

Proper watering techniques are important to get plants to grow deep roots so they can eventually find more ground water as well as nutrients on their own. Deep roots also keep tress from falling over. The best is to water evenly,  slow and deep.

We will later cover the white PVC pipe with soil and the black poly tubing with compost and mulch. Mulch and compost are very important to build healthy soil which allows the soil to hold more water, making it available to plants. Healthy soil also builds healthier plants that are more resistant to disease and less likely to fall over.

Also be sure to add an in-line filter before the emitters to get out any small particles that could clog or build up in the lines or emitters.

Don't forget to always take photos of your water lines while the trenches are open!

Important parts used (feel free to email me about details):

- Woodpecker Emitters - Woodpecker 2 GPH (green)
- Woodpecker Emitters - Woodpecker Bug Cap
- 1/2 in. (0.700 O.D.) x 500 ft. Poly Drip Tubing
- 3/4 in. Sc40 PVC pipe
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Minisode 7 - Cob Cabin Update - Trees Planted for Food Forest

4/6/2016

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This minisode goes quickly through the different tree species we planted recently that comprise the top layer of our drought-tolerant food forest. We will go through the characteristics of each species in separate blogs/minisodes as well as definitions and design considerations for food forests. In a nutshell, a food forest is a regenerative multi-level food system - from tall trees, down to ground cover, you utilize space much more efficiently. The goal is to mimic patterns found in old growth forests to minimize human input (like water and fertilizers) and work.

Species I planted:
 - Jojoba - x2
 - Jujube - Li - x3
 - Apple - Gala
 - Coast Live Oak
 - Olive - Arbequina
 - Apple - Anna
 - Fig - Black mission
 - Macadamia nut - Kate - x2
 - Chinese elm (top story tree) - x3
 - Chilean mesquite (top story tree) - x4
 - Pomegranate - Parfianka
 - Loquat - x2
 - Pomegranate - Eversweet
 - Mulberry - Black Persian
 - Mulberry - White Pakistan
 - Monterey pine
 - Jujube - GA866
 - Olive - Arbosana
 - Torrey pine
 - Pomegranate - Wonderful
 - Apple - Golden Dorsett
 - Goji berry
 - Apple - Fuji
 - Prickly pear cactus

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Minisode 6 - Cob House Update - Little More Cob Up 

3/15/2016

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We have been busy and things have been wet so I have not gotten much cobbing done. Recently had some great friends spend the day helping me cob and we got a little more of the walls up!

Here is the video showing our progress.
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